.Niagara
Rim – July 3rd – 6th, 2007
by Alan Ratzburg
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Every now and then we make a run that
sticks with us. It seems to have moments and memories that carry on through
out time. And this was one of those trips. One of the odd things is that it
will probably not be the wheeling part of the trip that keeps this in our
memory banks, but the before, in between, and after events.
It started out simple enough; this trip would be only Mouth, Rolo, and myself.
This year the 4th of July holiday would be a tough one. Being mid week, it
was not a long weekend for most workers. Still, being a holiday, we wanted
to leave early to avoid that mad dash out of town. Keith was working and would
be home late as he usually is. Mouth called, and told me that we were meeting
at Rolo’s house at 9:30 PM, and would leave from there. Although definitely
not an early departure time, this would be as good. We would not be ahead
of the rush, but behind it.
I arrived at Rolo’s on schedule; Keith and Kris were both already there.
Keith was dashing about getting everything ready to go. Kris then realized
that he had forgotten to bring the fire bucket/washtub. He would run home,
get the tub, while Keith and I stopped at the Safeway for some grocery shopping.
Keith called Kris when we were done, and we would meet up on Hwy. 680, on
the roll. We caught up with Kris near the Mission San Jose turn off, and we
were now a convoy. Up over Altamont, take the Manteca turnoff and follow Hwy.
120 to Hwy. 108 and we were good to go. It did not seem like we had gone that
far when I began seeing signs, 80 miles to Carson City. Could this be a short
cut to Nevada? Kris had the waypoints on his GPS, and had no problem finding
the turnoff. Once on the spur road, we did miss the campground. I, since I
had no trailer, turned around and went back to confirm it was there, and it
was. This campground had a single road in, a u-turn around a tree, and then
back out the same road. We made the loop and Keith pulled into camp spot #1.
Kris and I pulled in behind him. We remarked to Keith, that across the road
was campsite #12, a great site. Wide open spaces with room to put your tent
anywhere, and I mean anywhere. So, we moved, and it was nice. Even though
it was 3 AM, Kris took out the tub and we had a small fire before hitting
the sleeping bags. I took my normal spot in the back of my Runner, Keith and
Mouth each in their own tents.
Ah, sunup came way to early for me. It was bright and getting warm, and it
was only 6:30 AM. It was not long after that when Keith and Kris crawled out.
It seems that both their tents were in direct sunlight and were now approaching
110° inside. They both came out in a sweat, looking like they just crawled
out of a sauna. So it was they who first started to rethink our campsite selection.
I fired up my road tested Coleman stove and cooked sausage, bacon, and eggs
for everyone. When we were eating, in unison, we notice that we were all sitting
in the shade of Rolo’s truck grille in an effort to stay out of the
7:30 AM blistering sunshine. Then a revelation hit us. This great camping
spot, with infinite tenting possibilities, was made possible by the fact that
there were NO TREES. The largest shade within fifty yards was underneath the
picnic table. Oh yea, this was a smart move all right. It did not take any
convincing for us to all agree that we needed to move back to the other side
of the road.
After we had moved, and it did not take us long, we sat under the shade of
our tree and looked back over at the Sahara campsite, and wondered, “what
were we thinking?”. Actually it was Keith who was wondering, “what
were you two thinking?”. This was the spot he had originally picked
anyway. We all sat in our chairs, and followed the shade until about 11:30
when we decided to go check out the trail. We passed the turnoff, but it was
not big deal. Just turn around and go back. Depending on the coordinates,
finding a trailhead with the GPS can still be a tricky thing.
First it was up ‘No Way Out Hill’, looking at the map and reading
the name, that may sound intimidating. Looking at the actual obstacle was
like looking at a one-lane dirt road up the Sunol grade, only not quite as
steep. We sometimes wonder whom it is that names these trials. We stopped
at what turned out to be P.H. Rock for Rolo’s rig engine to cool down.
From there, a hard right, and down ‘Heartbreak Hill’. It was 90%
packed dirt, and very steep. Next obstacle was ‘Sidewall Suicide’.
We were not actually sure when we passed it. It was not all that obvious.
Ah yes, then came ‘Lion’s Butt’. Kind of an off the main
trial play area. A very miniature slab, with varying degrees of ledges, bumps,
and groves. We played for a few moments, then let Rolo’s rig cool down
again. It was decided that he must move his auto trans cooler. It was under
the hood and picked up all the engine heat, then used that air to try to cool
the tranny. It was not working. The trans would start to heat up, and being
attached to the engine, shared that heat with the engine so it would overheat.
As we were leaving, Rolo noticed a Samari trying to get up a ledge. It did
not make it and rolled backwards. When the guy hit the brakes, the front wheels
came off the ground and did a rear end wheelie. I am sure he had to change
his shorts. When we passed the ledge, we noted it was only about a three-foot
step up, maybe not that tall. Oh well, the joys of a very short wheelbase.
Next stop, the ‘Rock Pile’. There were a few guys around, one
of whom attached himself to us as we walked the area. Again, a small slab
like section. I use the term slab only because it was all one continuous rock.
Not because it was flat. Kris went up the normal grove section, which could
be tough if you were in a stock or semi stock rig. It reminded me of a 100-yard
trip up the Big Sluice. He walked right up without missing a beat. This tag
along guy, whom apparently was with the Sonora Posey, pointed out one spot
that he had only seen one guy make before. That was it. The gauntlet had been
tossed. Rolo got his rig and gave it a shot. It was a very narrow uphill between
two very large boulders on each side. And a giant one straight ahead, forcing
a hard left turn.
Keith decided he would try the right side line. Running his right tire up
the side of a 14-foot granite boulder, which it did quite nicely. The problem
was as it came down and the rig started to pivot to the left, it also pitched
the rear end to the left, and into a large hole. He tried this line a number
of times, with the same results. I was amazed at his new tires. One time his
front end climbed the wall on the right side using nothing but sidewall. It
did not lurch, slip, spin, or slide, it just climbed. And it hung on nicely.
Since this line was not working, he moved over to the left side line. This
time, his left front would climb on top of a 10-foot boulder. Just about the
time his tire got on top, it would pitch the rear end to the right and into
the same hole as the other line. Since going to the auto trans, his gearing
has been the only drawback. It needs to be about 50% lower. He just cannot
generate the wheel speed that he needs for some of these assaults. About the
time the wheels start to get enough speed, they hit an obstacle, and it is
just geared to tall to pull through, and they stall down to a very slow crawl.
Finally, after numerous attempts, he said that he was going to back out before
he breaks his shit. You got it. About two minutes later, the back end dug
in a little, he hit the gas, and bang went the right front stub axle. The
front end was not bound up, just in between two rocks, with a lot of traction.
As he got free and was about to back out, the end cap popped off the right
front hub, and it spit out about one inch of the outer stub. No doubt now
about what broke. We pulled out all of the broken pieces that we could find,
and headed back to camp. It turns out we were only a couple hundred yards
from a bypass road that headed back and would dump us right at our campground.
I am sure we could have made it out using the trail, but this was supposed
to be a lot shorter. And boy was it dusty. I was running in the back, and
multiple times, had to actually come to a complete stop for ten to fifteen
seconds for the dust to clear some. When you cannot see you own windshield
wipers, it is time to give up.
After getting back, we assumed our normal positions under the tree, and waited
for the sun to go down before heading out in the heat to fix Rolo’s
rig, and it was only 3:00 PM. At about 7:30 PM, we started to work. Keith
had problems getting the hub nuts off. It seems that when the axle broke,
it expanded the spindle a little. No problem, he had a spare for that too.
We got the axle assembly out and started to disassemble it when Rolo remembered
that he had a spare inner, outer, and a spare CTM. So instead of pulling the
old one apart, we just built a new one. Got it installed, and all that was
left was to check to see if the carrier held up. Because he has lockouts and
not locking hubs, there was no backlash release when the stub broke, and sounded
far less violent than it normally does. He did a front-end dig to confirm
that the Detroit was still good, it was, and we were all set.
Thursday morning, woke up, ate breakfast, and this would be a long one. We
were not going back out into the heat, and would wait for sundown. Maybe not
the sharpest knives in the drawer, but we learned our lesson about being out
in this sun. So under our tree, we sat. We snacked. We moved our chairs, following
the shade. We snacked. We drank. We moved out chairs. It was a very long day
indeed. About then, boredom sat in. As we followed the shade, we kept looking
over at the Sahara campsite. At all the open area for infinite tenting possibilities.
How wonderful that concept had appeared at 3 AM in the morning. That was not
even a debatable decision when we made it, it just made sense. It was the
heat of the sun that made us immediately realize our mistake. By now we had
already said everything of importance, and it was now kind of like a epileptic
tongue with tourettes free for all. Keith looked over at the top of the tent
(all we could see above the weeds) at our old Sahara neighbors. He remarked
at what idiots they were. There were four of them; all crowed together under
one tree, moving around to stay in the shade. He then looked to the right
at Kris, then to the me on the left, then just in front of him to the tree,
sitting in the shade, and immediately realized what he had just said. Rolo
then remarked, “sitting around all day, in one spot, it was only a matter
of time before someone said something stupid”. I agreed, but it was
only 11:00 AM, it did not take him long, and he was not through. We sat. We
drank. We snacked. We moved. Etc. etc. etc. Keith was then rooting around
in his cooler for a soda. He finally got one, pulled it out, and sat down.
Proudly holding up his mini soda and telling us how much he liked the shorty
sodas so much more. Sure they were only 8 ounces, but he preferred them that
way. He then wanted to sit one beside a normal 12 ounce soda can to visually
prove how much smaller the can is. It appears that the shorty 8-ounce cans,
which hold about 2/3 of a normal can, are just slightly taller than half.
They must be a little fatter he remarked. He kept on and on about how he likes
to buy the smaller soda’s. Then brain/tongue fart number two. He really
liked them because he could get a lot more of them in his cooler. Then Mouth
spoke up, “Ya think? I hope you can get a lot more of them in your cooler,
they are half as big?. Wonder when they are going to come out with the 6-ounce
soda, you could probably get a whole bunch more of those in the cooler. The
thing that made that comment even better was that he had just previously explained
how if you bought the quart sized beers, that you could actually bring more
beer because you no longer had all that dead wasted space between the cans.
So the thought for the day was you can pack more beer if you buy the big bottles,
and more soda if you buy the smaller cans. Must be some type of time warp
beer soda continuum or something that inspires thoughts like this. Between
those comments, and me looking over at our Sahara campsite it kept me amused
for the rest of the day. Casper showed up on his motorcycle, he and his family
were camped about five miles down the road. He sat around with us and chatted.
Finally, as the time ticked by as we waited for sundown, about 7:00 PM, some
clouds moved in and covered the suns bright rays and we had to wait no more.
With that breath of relief, we decided to hit the trail one more time. We
would go in the by-pass, which would drop us off at the ‘Rock Pile’,
where we finished the day before. We had no sooner left camp, that Mouth proclaimed
that his alternator had bit the dust. Since I could swap batteries if needed,
we decided to go ahead. We started out on the correct by-pass, but somehow,
somewhere turned and got onto a different one. Casper was riding his bike
and coming along for entertainment, and he was not sure which way either.
When we came out on top we were still at the ‘Rock Pile’ but in
a complete different spot, oh well.
Rolo and I walked over to the section that took his axle earlier. Someone
had stacked a very large flat rock into the hole where his rear wheels were
kicked on his assaults. While that rock did not eliminate the rest of the
section, it did open the door and at least let you in. While we looked that
over, Kris went up the chute one more time. Rolo and I walked around viewing
some of the other lines that had been suggested. And we wondered about our
earlier guide. He would suggest routes that ended up with mowing down bushes.
How long before our government gets involved in this area is anybodies guess.
About then, Mouth was through with his trip up the chute, and was back down
at the bottom, wondering where to go next. We pointed out a tough line right
up the middle. This spot had very large boulders on each side, and a gap in
the middle. Mouth decided to give it a shot. He tried the right side line
that had his right tire clawing up an eight-foot high rock and pitching him
to the left. His left tire would then climb. When both front tires were on
top, his rear would hit, and did not quite have the momentum to get up. He
tried five or ten times with no success. There was no lack of airtime though.
A couple times he was very very close to rolling. The space program could
have put astronauts in the right seat to give them weightless airtime, because
there was a lot of it. Finally Keith told him, “you are so close, all
you need is a little bump, and hit it”. Mouth backed up, climbed until
both tire has started up the boulders, and gave it some umph. Rrmmmmm, bump,
bounce, and up. He made it, and it looked easy. Kris looked over at me and
said, “I should have done that the first time”. True, but we all
know you have to try the more simple options first. He was not out of the
woods yet. There was another gap to split to get up to the next plateau. If
I thought he got air before, I was wrong. This is where the real air came
out. He got some good air, and with some very good driving and spotting by
Rolo, pulled it up and over again. Turn right, a little more off camber, and
he was successfully out.
Next it was Rolo’s turn. Taking pretty much the same line, he would
climb up and over similar to what Kris had done. He made several low speed
attempts, which is preferable to launch and break. He was having the same
issues that faced Kris earlier. So taking his own advice, decided to be a
little more aggressive. He gave it a few shots, but the old gearing issues
did not go away, and were right there to slap him down. Just not enough RPM
and horsepower to keep the rear wheels spinning. Kris is not overrun with
horsepower, but he has the gearing to make up for it. Rolo finally had to
back away, and was not happy about it. This now gives him two spots for him
to seek revenge after he gets his gearing done. I did not play at all at this
spot. I had my two original Bobby Long treated birfs bite the dust on the
Rubicon, and was back to completely stock units. I have absolutely no faith
in those, and did not want to intentionally do something that I was sure would
have the birfs for a snack. So we decided to head back. But it was still semi
early, we had been sitting in camp all day, so we would not take the by-pass,
we would reverse the trail and go back the way we originally came in. As we
were heading out, coming the other direction were the three Sammy’s
that were based out of our campground, they were headed for the by-pass and
back to camp.
We headed out. As we started rolling I immediately radioed to Kris. His rear
driveline had a slight wobble. OK, a little more than slight. It was bent
to the point that I thought it should have been hitting his springs on the
left and right as it rotated. This was bent badly; it hurt just to watch it.
He said it was fine. He suggested that the point of no return was if it was
bent bad enough to use as a jump rope, and it was not far off. Perhaps if
you were short. Sea Biscuit could have jumped rope with this one and had headroom
to spare. We headed out again, Lions Butt, Shale Hill, Sidewall Suicide, and
Heartbreak Hill. I was absolutely amazed at how fast we were at Heartbreak
Hill. From there, down No Way Out Hill, and we were almost to the pavement
and back at camp. In fact, we were back in camp. Parked, situated, sitting
down, and relaxing when the Sammy’s showed up. They took the by-pass
and we had beaten them. ‘Rock Pile’ and sitting back in camp in
45 minutes, that was quick. We were not racing, just cruising along and having
a good time.
It was now about 8:30 PM, and time for Kris to kick off the fire in the washtub.
We had a substantial pile of wood, and we were going to burn it all. Let the
games begin. Plus we had found one spot on the hill covered in dry pinecones,
which we carried and threw down to our camp. Between those and the wood, a
hot fire was in the mix. It was not long before the washtub was glowing red,
which I had never seen. The hole in the bottom was getting plugged, and Kris
had a seven-foot walking stick he would ram through the middle to clear it
out. When it cleared, the tub shot a pencil beam flame about seven feet in
the air. Rolo took an empty aluminum can and pushed it under the tub. In less
than 20 seconds, it would melt flat, and pretty much stay that way. I reached
in with a stick, and as soon as I touched it, it flowed all over. It was molten
aluminum that kind of stayed in the shaped of a flat can until touched. We
were amazed and did that five or ten times. Not one of us sat closer than
ten feet away, it was too hot. Rolo decided to sacrifice an old camp chair
to the fire gods, and put it in. It did not last long, and we all debated
as to whether the legs would melt. They got white hot, but unlike the cans,
never melted. During all of this, Kris was keeping his eye on a one-man purple
tent that was in the next site. It and a full sized tent were there when we
arrived, still there, and no one around. He wanted to burn the tents. We started
kidding about people coming to our camp and asking us if we had seen their
tent. We would say no. Then they would question why we had a stack of tent
poles laying around and melted nylon dripping from our washtub. Long before
all the wood was gone, we also noted that the entire car rim that was welded
to the bottom and used as a stand, was also glowing red. Oh how we all wanted
to have our Popiels Pocket Bellows now. With a fire this hot, we could have
forged Keith a new axle. I believe it was Kris who questioned now far down
in the ground the heat would travel. And it was Keith who said that somewhere
in China, they were wondering why their rice patty burst into flames. I have
never seen a fire this hot.
Morning came. As we ate something, and milled around, I noticed Kris just
staring at the fire pit, and the coals. He could not let it go. Then next
thing I knew, he was on his hands and knees with a piece of paper, blowing
on the coals. Of course I had to help, so I go a dry piece of the egg crate
to put in the mix. We did it. We got it going. And in spite of it being 85°,
we started finding branches and twigs to put on the fire. Then Kris ran for
another load of pinecones. Does the word, pyromaniac mean anything to you?
We did not give up until it was roaring one more time.
Then we were all loaded up and ready to head for home. Now we had to reverse
the process, and kill the fire. Between the big blue jug Kris had, plus all
the cooler water, we used close to 20 gallons of water before it was completely
squelched. This confirmed just how hot this had gotten. Convinced the coals
were dead, it was close to noon and it was time for us to head for home. As
we came down, off the hill, it was getting very hot. Not warm, but hot. We
ended up stopping in Manteca for lunch. When I saw Keith I mentioned the heat,
and he said according to his in cab temperature gauge, it was up to 104°,
but he had to turn down his A/C because it was blowing right on his hands,
and they were getting cold, ass hole. We had a very pleasant, other than the
heat, ride back to San Jose. We all pealed off our respective ways, and we
are home.
For all the photos please visit our Niagara Rim photo page.